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Under the Sink
A garbage disposal is a small electric motor spinning a grinding plate inside a chamber that is wet, greasy and full of food every day of its life. It is a hard job, and the ways it fails are predictable: the motor hums but the plate is jammed, the bearings seize, the seal between the motor and the chamber gives out and water drips from the bottom, or the mounting ring loosens and it weeps at the sink flange. A few of those are quick repairs. Some of them mean the unit is done.
Radiant’s plumbers serve kitchens across Austin, San Antonio and Central Texas and carry replacement disposals on the truck, so if yours is finished we can have a new one in the same visit. We match the horsepower and size to your sink cabinet and how much cooking your household does, connect the dishwasher drain correctly, and make sure the disposal is not the reason the sink has been draining slowly. If the real problem is grease further down the line, we tell you that instead of selling you a disposal you do not need.
Every repair or replacement is priced in writing before we begin and covered by the Home Comfort Guarantee. Care Club members get 5% off and never pay a dispatch fee.
What to Watch For
Switch it off before you investigate any of these. Never put a hand in the chamber with the power on.
The plate is jammed, often by a bone, a pit or a bit of silverware. A hum that goes on more than a few seconds can burn out the motor.
The reset button on the bottom has tripped, the breaker is off, or the motor has failed. Two of those are free to check.
The internal seal has failed and water is reaching the motor. This one is not repairable; the disposal needs replacing.
The mounting assembly has loosened or the plumber’s putty has dried out. A reseal fixes it if the flange is not corroded.
Food is getting through, then stalling in the trap or the branch line. That is a drain problem the disposal is only revealing.
Food trapped under the splash guard or in a chamber that has worn rough. If cleaning does not solve it, the unit is usually near the end.
What We Handle
Including the drain and dishwasher connections that a disposal swap always touches.
How It Works
Short visit, clear answer, and a kitchen sink you can use again tonight.
Hum, silence, leak or smell. If it is leaking, we will suggest turning off the disposal at the breaker and keeping the sink dry until we arrive.
Power, reset, jam check, seal check, and a look at how the sink drains with the disposal out of the picture.
Repair if it is repairable, replacement if it is not, with the cost of each in writing and honored for 72 hours.
New unit mounted, dishwasher connected, sink filled and drained, and every joint checked dry before we close the cabinet.
Save on the work your home needs most.
A licensed plumber can have a new disposal running today. No surprise fees, even on a Sunday.
Don't just take our word for it — hear from our satisfied customers
Maintenance Membership
Home maintenance for $9.99 a month.
Care Club members get two HVAC tune-ups and a plumbing safety inspection every year, priority scheduling, no dispatch fees — ever — and 5% off every repair.
Often, yes. A hum means the motor has power but the grinding plate is stuck, usually on a bone, a fruit pit, a piece of glass or a utensil. Turn the disposal off at the switch, and ideally the breaker, before doing anything else; running it jammed for more than a few seconds overheats the motor and trips the thermal reset on the bottom. Many units have a hex socket underneath where a wrench can free the plate by hand, and the object can then be removed with tongs, never fingers. If it spins freely after that and grinds normally, the disposal is fine. If it hums again with nothing in the chamber, the bearings have seized and it is time for a replacement.
Water dripping from the underside of the disposal, near the reset button, means the internal seal between the grinding chamber and the motor has failed. Once water reaches the motor, the unit is on borrowed time and there is no serviceable part to swap; the fix is a new disposal. Leaks higher up are a different story. A drip at the sink flange is a reseal, a drip at the side drain elbow is a gasket, and a drip at the dishwasher inlet is a hose clamp. We check all four spots before saying the word replacement, and if it is the bottom seal we have a new unit on the truck.
Yes, in most kitchens. The plumbing side involves replacing the basket strainer with a disposal flange, reworking the trap and tailpiece so everything lines up, and connecting the dishwasher drain to the disposal inlet if you have one. The disposal also needs a source of power, either a switched outlet under the sink or a hardwired connection with a wall switch. In the Austin area our licensed electricians can add that outlet; in San Antonio we can tell you exactly what your electrician needs to provide before we install. We will also check that the drain line can handle ground food, because a line that is already slow will get worse with a disposal on it.
Lifespan depends heavily on use and on what goes down it, so we would rather describe the signs than promise a number. Replace it when it leaks from the bottom, when it jams repeatedly with nothing stuck, when it trips the reset regularly, when the grinding chamber is so worn that food smells linger no matter how you clean, or when it has simply stopped and does not respond to the reset. In Central Texas, hard water accelerates corrosion inside the chamber and on the flange, so units here often show these signs earlier. If the motor is sound and the problem is a jam, a flange seal or a loose mount, repair is the better value and we will say so.
Cold. Cold water keeps fats and grease solid so the disposal can chop them and the flow can carry them out; hot water melts grease, which then re-solidifies further down the drain line and builds the clog that brings us out for a drain cleaning. Run the water before, during and for several seconds after grinding. Keep out grease and oil, coffee grounds, eggshells, fibrous vegetables like celery and corn husks, pasta and rice that swell, bones, fruit pits and anything that is not food. Ice cubes and citrus peel are fine and help clean the chamber. Chemical drain cleaners should never go down a disposal; they damage the seals.
Blame the water. San Antonio draws from the Edwards Aquifer, and that limestone-filtered water is very hard, so every cycle leaves a little mineral crust on the grinding plate, the shredder ring and the sink flange. Over a few years that scale stiffens the splash guard, roughens the chamber so food smells linger, and binds the bearings until the motor hums and stalls. Scale also narrows the drain elbow and trap under the sink, which gets blamed on the disposal when it is really the drain.
Garbage disposal repair in San Antonio starts by sorting those out. We free a jam, reseal the flange, replace a drain gasket or dishwasher inlet clamp, clear the trap, and only call it a replacement if the bearings or motor seal have gone. Our San Antonio plumbers carry both the parts and new units.
Often, yes, and the difference is downstream of the disposal. Austin’s Highland Lakes water is hard too, though generally less so than San Antonio’s, so scale on the flange and chamber builds more slowly here. The bigger issue in pre-1970 homes in Hyde Park, Crestview, Allandale and Travis Heights is the original drain line. Cast iron under the slab or in a crawl space has spent sixty years narrowing with rust and scale, and galvanized branch lines are worse. Feed finely ground food into that and you get a kitchen clog the disposal gets blamed for.
So garbage disposal repair in Austin includes checking how the sink drains with the unit bypassed before we fix or replace it. If the line is the problem, we quote that instead. Our Austin plumbers handle both on one visit.