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Water Lines
Your water service line runs underground from the meter at the street to the point where it enters the house. The utility owns the main and the meter; everything on your side of the meter is yours. That line gets a harder life here than most places. Across much of Austin and San Antonio it is buried in expansive clay that heaves and shrinks with the weather, or chipped into limestone and caliche that never quite stops rubbing on it. Older lines are galvanized steel that rusts shut or thin-walled polyethylene that splits at the fittings, and tree roots find every joint.
Radiant handles the whole range of service line work: replacing a line that has failed for good, rerouting one that runs under a slab or a new addition, upsizing an undersized line so the house stops starving for pressure, and installing new service to a workshop, casita or irrigation system. Where the run and the soil cooperate, we pull the new line through the old path without an open trench across the yard. If you are dealing with a leak right now rather than planning a replacement, start with water line repair. If the pressure problem is inside the house, the fix may be a pressure reducing valve or repiping rather than the service line, and we will tell you which. Either way, the price is written before we dig, and the work is covered by the Home Comfort Guarantee.
What to Watch For
A single break can be repaired. These are the signs the whole run is at the end of its life.
Old galvanized or brittle poly does not fail once. Two repairs in a few years means the rest is waiting its turn.
A service line rusted nearly shut or sized for a smaller house. The whole home is fed through a straw.
Debris arriving from the street side means the service line itself is shedding, not the pipes inside.
A service line beneath the house or a new patio is a future slab leak. Rerouting it around is cheaper before the concrete is poured.
A slow underground leak feeding the grass. In a Central Texas drought, the healthy strip gives it away.
Adding a second building or a sprinkler system often means a new dedicated line or upsizing the existing one.
What We Do
Repair, replacement, rerouting and new installation, from licensed plumbers who dig in this ground every week.
How It Works
We plan the switchover to keep your time without water short. You know the plan and the price before a shovel goes in.
We trace the existing line, check the meter and the entry point, look at soil and obstacles, and decide whether trenchless will work.
Material, route, method, what gets disturbed and how it gets restored. Permits and utility locates arranged where required.
Pits or trench opened, new pipe run and connected at the meter and the house, with a new shutoff and PRV as needed.
The line pressure-tested, any required inspection completed, then backfilled and the yard put back as agreed.
Save on the work your home needs most.
Get a written price with trenchless and open-trench options compared.
Don't just take our word for it — hear from our satisfied customers
Maintenance Membership
Home maintenance for $9.99 a month.
Care Club members get two HVAC tune-ups and a plumbing safety inspection every year, priority scheduling, no dispatch fees — ever — and 5% off every repair.
In most Central Texas water systems, the utility owns and maintains the main in the street and the meter, and the homeowner owns everything on the house side of the meter, including the buried service line to the house and the shutoff valve at the building. So a leak in the yard between the meter and your foundation is almost always your repair. A leak at or before the meter is the utility’s. If you are not sure which side a wet spot is on, look at where it is relative to the meter box, or call us and we will check it. It is worth knowing your utility’s rules before there is a problem, and some offer optional service line coverage.
Instead of digging a trench along the entire run, we open a small pit at each end, at the meter and at the house, and pull the new pipe through the path of the old one. Depending on the soil and the old pipe, that is done by bursting the old line outward as the new one follows, or by boring a new path alongside it. The lawn, driveway, sidewalk and tree roots in between are left alone. It is not possible everywhere: solid rock, a line with too many bends, or a run that passes under other utilities can rule it out. When we assess your line we tell you whether trenchless will work and price it against the open-trench option so you can compare.
The common choices are PEX, copper and HDPE, and all three are good when installed properly. HDPE is a tough, jointless plastic pipe well suited to trenchless pulls and rocky ground, since it comes in one continuous length with no underground fittings to fail. PEX is flexible, resists our hard water and is often used for shorter or more accessible runs. Copper is durable and long-proven but costs more and can be affected by soil chemistry over decades. What we avoid is what fails here: galvanized steel and thin-walled polyethylene with barbed fittings. We recommend a material based on your route, soil and budget and explain why in the estimate.
It can, if the service line is the bottleneck. A galvanized line rusted nearly closed, a line sized for a smaller house than the one that grew around it, or a long run of undersized pipe will all starve a home of flow, and no amount of work inside the house changes that. But low pressure has other causes: a failing pressure reducing valve, a partially closed main valve, scale in the interior pipes, or simply low pressure from the utility. Before recommending a new line, we test the pressure at the meter and at the house and compare them. If the drop happens across the service line, replacing it is the fix. If not, we point you to the actual cause on our water pressure page.