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Outlets, Switches & Dimmers
An outlet is the cheapest part of your electrical system and the one you touch most. It is also where a lot of house fires start: a receptacle with worn contacts that no longer grips a plug, a backstabbed connection that has loosened over thirty years of thermal cycling, or a two-prong outlet that somebody “upgraded” with a three-prong cover and no ground behind it. Switches fail the same way, quietly, until one day the plate is warm.
Radiant’s licensed electricians replace and add outlets and switches across Austin, from a single dead receptacle in a Crestview bungalow to a full swap to tamper-resistant devices in a Pflugerville house with toddlers. We install GFCI protection where water lives, in kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms, garages and outdoors, and we put in dedicated receptacles for the appliances that deserve their own circuit. Dimmers get matched to the bulbs. Smart switches get a neutral, because most of them need one and older boxes often do not have it.
If the outlet you want is on a wall with no wiring nearby, we run a new line. If the circuit behind it is already full, we say so and price the fix rather than stacking one more load on it. The price is in writing before we start, and the work is backed by the Home Comfort Guarantee. For bigger projects, see our installation page; for a device that has failed, our repairs page.
What to Watch For
Warm, discolored or sparking means stop using it and call. The rest are worth fixing before they get there.
Often a tripped GFCI upstream, a loose backstab connection or a worn device. Occasionally the first sign of a failing circuit.
Heat at a device means a bad connection. Unplug what is there, stop using it and call. This is how outlet fires start.
The contacts are worn. A loose plug arcs and heats. The receptacle should be replaced, not tolerated.
Common in pre-1960s Austin homes. There are safe ways to get grounded-style protection without rewiring the whole house.
GFCI protection in wet areas is a modern requirement for a reason. Adding it is quick and cheap compared to a shock.
Contacts arcing inside the device. Replace it. If it is a dimmer running LEDs, replace it with one rated for them.
What We Do
Replacement, protection and new locations, all tested with a meter before we close the cover.
How It Works
Quick for the simple jobs, careful on all of them.
A dead outlet, a new location, a whole-house device swap. We book a window that fits, including evenings and weekends.
The electrician confirms the circuit, the ground and the load before touching anything, so the fix is the real fix.
Devices, wiring and any extras in one written number. Nothing is added afterward.
Every device is tested under load and every GFCI is trip-tested. New circuits get labeled at the panel.
Save on the work your home needs most.
A licensed electrician can often handle it in a single visit, with the price agreed first.
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A GFCI trips when it senses current leaking somewhere it should not go, which is exactly what it is for. The usual causes are moisture in an outdoor or garage box, a failing appliance with a small ground fault such as an old refrigerator or a hair dryer, too many devices daisy-chained downstream of one GFCI, or a GFCI that has simply worn out after years of service. Try unplugging everything on that circuit and resetting. If it holds, plug things back one at a time. If it trips with nothing plugged in, or will not reset at all, the device or the wiring needs a look.
Not necessarily. Older Austin homes with two-wire circuits have a few options. The most thorough is running a ground or new cable to the outlets that matter, which is sometimes practical when there is attic or crawlspace access. A widely accepted alternative is installing GFCI protection on those circuits, which lets three-prong receptacles be used safely with a label noting there is no equipment ground. That protects people from shock even though it does not provide a ground path for surge protectors and some electronics. We will look at the wiring and tell you which approach fits your house and budget.
A tamper-resistant receptacle has spring-loaded shutters behind the slots that only open when both prongs of a plug push in at the same time. A child poking a single object into one slot cannot reach the contact. They have been standard on new residential work for years and cost only a little more than a plain outlet. If you have young kids or grandkids visiting, swapping the outlets in living areas and bedrooms is one of the cheapest safety upgrades available. They look and work like any other outlet; you will forget they are there.
Yes. The electrician finds the nearest suitable circuit, checks that it has capacity for what you plan to plug in, and runs new cable to the location, through the attic, along a basement or crawlspace, or fished inside the wall. In a slab-on-grade Austin home with a finished ceiling and no attic access above that wall, it can take more work, and sometimes a surface raceway or a floor box is the practical answer. For something that draws real power, like a space heater, a treadmill or a window unit, we usually recommend a dedicated circuit from the panel instead of tapping an existing one.
Outlets are wired in a chain, so a failed connection at one device can kill everything after it while the ones before it still work. A loose backstab connection is the classic cause, and the failed outlet is often not the dead one but the last working one upstream. The other common explanation is a GFCI somewhere else, in a bathroom, the garage or outside, that protects that outlet and has tripped. Check every GFCI reset button in the house first. If that is not it, we trace the chain and repair the bad connection rather than just swapping the dead device.