Cities We Serve
Austin Area:
San Antonio Area:
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Excavation
Digging in Central Texas is two different jobs depending on which side of the interstate you live on. East of it, the Blackland Prairie clay is sticky and heavy when wet and hard as brick when dry, and it moves with the seasons, which is why so many of the lines we dig up are broken at a joint that the ground pushed out of place. West of it, in the Hill Country and the limestone neighborhoods of both cities, there may be only a few inches of soil over solid rock, and reaching a sewer line means a breaker or a rock hammer, not a shovel. We have been digging in both since 1999.
Every excavation starts with knowing exactly where to dig. A camera and locator put a mark on the ground over the break with its depth, and buried utilities are located and flagged before the first cut. That turns “dig up the yard” into a pit a few feet across in the right spot. For a full sewer replacement, the trench follows the marked route and no wider. For a break under the house, we tunnel beneath the slab from an outside pit so the repair happens under your floor rather than through it, and the tunnel is backfilled when the work is done.
Restoration is spelled out before you agree to anything. The quote says what we set aside and put back, how the trench is filled and compacted so it does not settle, and what happens if a section of driveway or patio has to be cut. It is accurate, has no hidden fees, and is honored for 72 hours under the Home Comfort Guarantee. The same crews handle water service line digs, and financing is available on the larger jobs.
When It Is Needed
We dig when nothing else will work. These are the findings that get us there.
The camera stops at a wall of soil or crushed pipe. Nothing goes through it and nothing coats it. That section has to come out.
A sag in the line collects sediment no matter how often it is cleared. Fixing it means re-bedding that length at the correct slope.
Clay soil moved the ground and the pipe went with it. An offset severe enough to catch a cable will not seal from the inside.
A drain leaking beneath the slab washes out the soil that supports it. Reached by tunnel or, when the run is short, through the floor.
A soft, wet patch between the meter and the house, or a bill that doubled. The line is pressurized and the leak is found with leak detection gear, then dug and repaired.
A mature tree or the weight of vehicles over a shallow run can flatten old pipe. It has to be replaced, and the route sometimes moved.
What We Do
Sized to the problem, dug by the crew that does the plumbing, and closed by the same people.
How It Works
Marked, quoted, dug, inspected and closed, in that order.
The camera and locator mark the break and its depth. Buried utilities are located and flagged so nothing else gets hit.
The dig, the plumbing, the backfill and exactly what gets put back, priced together and honored for 72 hours.
The crew opens the marked area, makes the repair, and where a permit applies, the hole stays open until the inspector has seen the work.
The camera confirms the line, the hole is filled and compacted in lifts, and the surface is restored as the quote describes.
Save on the work your home needs most.
Get a second look on camera and a quote that spells out the hole and the cleanup. Austin and San Antonio.
Don't just take our word for it — hear from our satisfied customers
Maintenance Membership
Home maintenance for $9.99 a month.
Care Club members get two HVAC tune-ups and a plumbing safety inspection every year, priority scheduling, no dispatch fees — ever — and 5% off every repair.
Almost never. The reason we run a camera and locator before quoting any dig is so the hole matches the problem. A single broken joint or a rusted-out section means a pit a few feet square directly over the mark. A full sewer replacement means a trench along the marked route, which is narrow and follows the existing line, usually along the side of the house and out to the street. Where a line is intact but leaking, a trenchless pipe coating can skip the trench entirely. What we will not do is start digging to find the problem. If a quote you have been given involves opening the yard to look, ask for camera footage first.
Most residential laterals sit somewhere between a couple of feet and roughly six feet down, and the depth changes along the run because the pipe has to keep falling toward the city main. Where the main is deep or the lot slopes toward the house, the connection end can be deeper still. On the limestone side of Austin and San Antonio, the line is often shallower simply because that is as far as the original crew could dig, which also means it is more exposed to root pressure and vehicle loads. The locator reads the depth at every point of interest during the camera run, so by the time we quote, we know how deep the hole goes and whether it is soil or rock the whole way.
It depends on what the line runs under, and you will know before you agree to the work. Sod is cut and set aside, then put back. Gravel and pavers are lifted and reset. Plants in the path are moved where that is practical. Where a sewer line runs under a concrete driveway, patio or sidewalk, that section usually has to be cut, and the quote says plainly whether pouring it back is included or is something to arrange separately. In many cases a trenchless coating or a tunnel lets us avoid cutting concrete at all, and we will tell you when that option exists. The trench itself is backfilled in layers and compacted, which is what keeps the surface from sinking a year later.
Yes, and it is our preference when the layout allows it. A tunnel is dug by hand from a pit outside the foundation, following the drain line beneath the slab to the break, and the repair or replacement happens in that tunnel while your flooring, cabinets and walls stay untouched. The tunnel is backfilled and compacted when the work is done. It takes longer than cutting the slab and costs more per foot, but it saves the tile, the hardwood and the mess, and for a kitchen or a finished bathroom that is usually the better trade. When the break is a short distance in and the floor above is easy to replace, cutting through can be the cheaper answer. We price the one that makes sense for your house, and both when it is close.