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Pipe Coating
Some pipe is worth replacing, and some pipe is in a place where replacing it means cutting through finished tile, a slab or a wall full of cabinets. That is where coating earns a look. The pipe is cleaned from the inside to bare metal, then a liquid epoxy or polyurea coating is applied through the existing openings and cured in place. What you end up with is a smooth, sealed lining bonded to the old pipe wall: pinholes closed, corrosion stopped, rough scale gone and flow improved. Epoxy is the usual choice for pressurized water lines. Polyurea is a thicker, tougher lining more often used on drain and sewer pipe.
Coating is not for every pipe, and we will not pretend otherwise. A galvanized line that has rusted paper-thin or a polybutylene system failing at the fittings needs repiping, and a drain with a belly or a collapsed section needs sewer repair before any lining. So Radiant starts with an inspection, including a camera inspection on drain lines and pressure testing on supply lines, and tells you which pipe is a good coating candidate and which is not. You get both numbers, coating and replacement, in writing, and the choice is yours. Whatever you pick is backed by the Home Comfort Guarantee.
When It Fits
The best candidates are pipes that are structurally sound but corroded, scaled or pinholed, sitting where replacement would mean a demolition project.
Small leaks in a line under expensive flooring. Lining seals the pinholes from inside instead of jackhammering the floor.
Decades of Central Texas hard water leave mineral buildup that narrows pipe. Cleaning and coating restores a smooth bore.
Older homes with cast iron under the slab: rough, flaking and catching debris. A polyurea lining seals it and smooths it out.
When the wall in front of the pipe cost more than the pipe, coating through existing openings is often the sensible path.
Lining a sound-but-rough sewer keeps the oak, the driveway and the patio intact. Roots that cracked it need repair first.
Corrosion in one section that is otherwise sound. Coating stops the rust at the source rather than filtering it at the tap.
What We Coat
Different pipe, different coating, different preparation. We match the method to the pipe rather than selling one process for everything.
How It Works
Inspect, clean, coat, cure, verify. Skipping any of them is how a lining fails early.
Camera through the drain or pressure testing on the supply side. We confirm the pipe is intact enough to line and quote you in writing.
Scale, rust and buildup removed from the inside so the coating bonds to the pipe wall, not to a layer of debris.
Epoxy or polyurea introduced through existing openings and distributed along the run, then left to cure into a continuous lining.
A second camera pass or pressure test to confirm full coverage, fixtures reconnected, and water or drains back in service.
Save on the work your home needs most.
One inspection, two written prices, and a straight answer on which one we would choose.
Don't just take our word for it — hear from our satisfied customers
Maintenance Membership
Home maintenance for $9.99 a month.
Care Club members get two HVAC tune-ups and a plumbing safety inspection every year, priority scheduling, no dispatch fees — ever — and 5% off every repair.
Coatings used inside potable water lines are formulated and certified for contact with drinking water, and that is the only kind we would put in a supply line. The material cures into a hard, inert lining that does not flake or leach once set. Curing time matters: the line stays out of service until the coating has fully hardened, and we flush it before returning it to use. It is fair to ask what product is going into your pipes and to see its drinking-water rating, and we will show you. If a supply line is so deteriorated that a lining would be the only thing holding it together, we recommend replacing it instead; a coating is meant to protect pipe, not substitute for it.
Properly applied to sound pipe, a modern epoxy or polyurea lining is a long-term repair measured in decades, not years, and manufacturers back their products accordingly. The two things that shorten its life are poor preparation and lining pipe that should have been replaced. A coating bonded to rust or scale will separate; a coating over a cracked or bellied section will fail where the pipe moves. That is why we clean aggressively and inspect twice, and why we turn down jobs where the pipe is not a candidate. We will tell you the specific product used on your home and the coverage that comes with it before you approve the work.
Sometimes, and it is one of the reasons homeowners ask about it. Lining can seal pinhole leaks and light corrosion in a copper line under the slab without opening the floor, which is attractive when the flooring is tile or stone. It works when the pipe is otherwise intact and the leak is small. It does not work when a line has been rubbed through by slab movement or split by a freeze, because there is not enough pipe left to coat. In practice, we locate the leak first, assess the pipe, and then compare three options: a direct repair at the leak, an overhead reroute, or lining. Each has a price, and we will tell you which one we would pick for your floor.
Usually the coating itself is comparable to or somewhat more than the pipe work in a replacement, and the savings come from everything you do not have to do: no slab cutting, no tile removal, no drywall patching, no landscaping put back. On a run that is easy to reach, replacement is often the cheaper and simpler choice. On a run under a finished floor, behind a tiled shower wall or beneath a mature tree, coating tends to win once the restoration cost is added up. We price both for you, with the restoration work included in the replacement number so the comparison is honest. Financing is available for either option.