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Burst Pipes
Before you read another word: if water is pouring out somewhere, find your main shutoff. In most Central Texas homes it is a valve at the meter box near the street or where the line enters the house, often by a hose bib. Turn it clockwise until it stops. If you cannot find it or it will not turn, call us and we will walk you through it on the phone. Every minute of pressurized water into drywall, cabinets and flooring adds to the repair bill, and stopping it is the single most useful thing you can do.
Pipes here burst for a handful of reasons. A hard freeze like February 2021 splits lines in attics, garages and exterior walls that were never built for single digits. Water pressure that runs high strains every joint in the house. Old galvanized steel rusts thin from the inside, and copper under a slab wears through as the clay soil moves the foundation. Radiant replaces the failed section, pressure-tests the repair and tells you which of those causes you are dealing with. If it is pressure, a pressure reducing valve fixes the root problem. If it is age, we will give you an honest price on repiping next to the price of the patch. For a slow leak rather than a burst, start with leak detection.
What to Watch For
Some of these mean shut the water off now. The rest mean call before the next cold front or pressure spike.
A bulging ceiling, a stain that spreads while you watch or water at a light fixture. Shut off the main and stay away from the electrical.
A sudden loss of pressure at every fixture usually means a big opening in a supply line, often in the attic or under the slab.
Ice blocking the line. The split usually shows up when it thaws and pressure returns, so treat a frozen pipe as a burst waiting to happen.
Water hammer stresses joints until one lets go. A hiss with no fixture open is water escaping under pressure.
Galvanized steel corroding from the inside. Pipes thin enough to shed rust are thin enough to split.
The service line or a slab line has opened underground. The lawn stays green in a drought for a reason.
What We Repair
Copper, PEX, CPVC, galvanized and polybutylene, in the attic, the wall, the slab or the yard.
How It Works
Stop the water, fix the pipe, find the cause. In that order.
On the phone, we walk you to the main shutoff if you have not found it. Then we dispatch, day or night, with the price upfront and no surprise fees.
The split itself is usually obvious. Why it split is the useful part: pressure reading, pipe material, insulation, and whether other runs are at risk.
The repair, and anything that should be fixed with it, in writing. Nothing is cut until you say yes.
New pipe in, pressure restored and every joint checked under full pressure before we leave. Then we tell you what to watch for.
Save on the work your home needs most.
Shut off the main and call. We are on the way, any hour, with no surprise fees.
Don't just take our word for it — hear from our satisfied customers
Maintenance Membership
Home maintenance for $9.99 a month.
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Start at the street. Most homes here have a meter box in the ground near the curb, and inside it is a valve on the house side of the meter. Some need a meter key to turn; a pair of pliers works on many. The second place to look is where the water line enters the house, often at an exterior wall near a hose bib, in the garage, or in a box against the foundation. Newer homes frequently have a lever-style valve there that turns off with a quarter turn. Find yours on a calm day, make sure it actually turns, and show everyone in the house. If it is seized or corroded, that is worth fixing before you need it in a hurry. We can replace a stuck main valve on a regular service call.
As a stopgap, yes, with the water off. A rubber patch and hose clamp or a hardware-store repair clamp can hold a small split at reduced pressure long enough to get through a night. Self-fusing silicone tape works on pinholes. What none of them do is fix the pipe. A clamp on a corroded galvanized line or a freeze-split copper run is holding back full house pressure on metal that already failed once, and the next failure is usually a few inches away. Use the clamp to buy time, keep the pressure low or the line off, and have the section properly replaced. Do not bury a clamped repair back in a wall and forget it.
Often, for the water damage, and usually not for the pipe itself. Most standard policies treat a sudden burst as a covered event, so the damaged flooring, drywall and cabinets may be claimable, while the plumbing repair is typically the homeowner’s cost. Policies commonly exclude damage from long-term leaks and neglect, and some limit coverage if a home was left unheated during a freeze. Every policy is different, so read yours or call your agent. What we can do is document the failure clearly: photos of the break, the cause we found and an itemized invoice, which is what adjusters ask for. Take your own photos before anything is cleaned up too.
It depends on why it burst. A copper line that split in a freeze is a one-spot problem in an otherwise sound system; replace the section, insulate it and move on. A galvanized steel pipe that burst from corrosion is a different story, because every foot of that system is the same age and rusting the same way. The same goes for polybutylene, a gray plastic pipe used in many homes built from the late 1970s through the mid-1990s that fails at the fittings. In those cases we will give you the price to patch and the price to repipe, and an honest read on how many more calls like this one the old system has in it.