Cities We Serve
Austin Area:
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Furnace Repair
A furnace in Austin or San Antonio spends most of the year switched off in an attic that reaches 130 degrees. Dust settles on the burners and the flame sensor, the igniter gets brittle, and a pressure switch hose that was fine in February has cracked by November. Then a norther blows through, the thermostat calls for heat, and the furnace tries to light for the first time in eight months. That is why our heating calls cluster around the first few cold nights of the season, and why we run 24/7 through them.
The other thing we bring is a real diagnosis. “No heat” can be a flame sensor that takes ten minutes to clean, a failed igniter, a stuck gas valve or a cracked heat exchanger that means the furnace is done. Those are very different prices, and you should know which one you have before you spend anything. Our technician runs the furnace through its sequence, finds the part that is failing, and puts the repair in writing. Nothing happens until you approve it. If the repair is poor money on an old unit, we show you the replacement numbers next to it and let you decide.
Every repair carries the Home Comfort Guarantee, and Care Club members get 5% off with no dispatch fee.
Looking for your local team? See furnace repair in Austin or furnace repair in San Antonio.
What to Watch For
One of these means shut it off and call now. The rest mean call before the next freeze.
The classic fall failure. Usually a dirty flame sensor that cannot prove the flame, a cracked igniter, or a pressure switch that is not closing.
The burners are not lighting or the limit switch has tripped and cut the gas. On a heat pump, it can also be a system stuck in defrost.
Short cycling from an overheating heat exchanger, a clogged filter, a bad limit switch or a furnace that was oversized for the house.
A blower motor or capacitor on its way out, a collapsed filter, or ductwork that has come apart in the attic.
A bang at ignition means gas is pooling before it lights. Scraping is a blower wheel. Both get more expensive the longer they run.
Leave the house and call your gas utility first, then call us. Do not restart the furnace until it has been checked.
What We Repair
One licensed technician for the burner side, the blower side and the controls between them.
How It Works
No guessing and no pressure. You see the price before we pick up a tool.
Clicking but not lighting, cold air, a smell, a tripped breaker. We book the soonest window that works, any hour of any day.
A licensed technician watches the furnace start, tests the igniter, sensor, switches and gas pressure, and inspects the heat exchanger.
What failed, what fixing it involves and what it costs, in writing and honored for 72 hours. If a repair is a poor investment, we say so.
We fix it, run a full heating cycle, check the temperature rise and confirm the safety controls work before we leave.
Save on the work your home needs most.
We answer 24/7, including holidays, and the price is the same after hours.
Don't just take our word for it — hear from our satisfied customers
Maintenance Membership
Home maintenance for $9.99 a month.
Care Club members get two HVAC tune-ups and a plumbing safety inspection every year, priority scheduling, no dispatch fees — ever — and 5% off every repair.
That pattern almost always means the furnace lit but could not prove it. A gas furnace has a flame sensor, a thin metal rod in the burner flame, and if the rod is coated with the film that builds up over a summer of sitting idle, the control board cannot see the flame and closes the gas valve within seconds as a safety measure. It will try again two or three times and then lock out. Cleaning or replacing the sensor fixes it. The same symptom can come from a weak igniter, low gas pressure or a pressure switch that opens once the inducer motor is under load, so we test the whole start sequence rather than assuming.
Three quick things. First, the furnace switch: most units have a light switch on or near the cabinet, and it gets bumped off in the attic or closet more often than you would think. Second, the breaker for the furnace and, on a gas unit, that the gas supply valve at the furnace is open. Third, the filter and the blower door: a badly clogged filter can trip the limit switch, and a door that is not fully latched holds the safety switch open so the furnace will not start at all. If those check out and it is still silent, leave it and call. A dead control board, a failed transformer or a fault in the thermostat wiring needs a meter to find.
If the blower runs but the air never warms, the burners are not lighting or they lit and were shut down. Common causes are a failed igniter, a dirty flame sensor, a closed gas valve or a limit switch that tripped because the heat exchanger got too hot, often from a clogged filter. On a heat pump, cool air in heating mode can be a normal defrost cycle or a system that has lost refrigerant. One more thing to check: if the thermostat fan is set to “on” instead of “auto,” the blower runs constantly between heating cycles and the air it moves will feel cold. That one is a setting, not a repair.
No. A faint gas smell for a second or two at ignition on an older furnace can happen, but a persistent rotten-egg odor near the furnace or at the registers means gas is escaping somewhere it should not. Do not flip switches, light anything or restart the furnace. Get everyone out of the house, call your gas utility’s emergency line from outside, and then call us. Once the utility has made the area safe, our technician can find the source: a leaking valve, a loose fitting on the gas line, or a burner that is not lighting cleanly. Radiant handles both the HVAC and the plumbing side of a gas problem, so you are not coordinating two companies.
Both. A large share of homes in Austin and San Antonio have no gas service at all and heat with electric resistance elements inside an air handler, or with a heat pump that uses those strips as backup. The failures are different from a gas furnace: burned-out elements, sequencers that will not stage the strips on, tripped breakers from a shorted element, and thermostat wiring that never calls for auxiliary heat. Our technicians carry a meter and the common elements and sequencers on the truck. If your electric bill spikes every winter, that is often the strips running more than they should, and it is worth a look.