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Thermostats
A thermostat is a switch with opinions. It decides when the compressor starts, when the second stage kicks in, when a heat pump gives up and turns on the electric strips, and how long the fan runs after a cycle. Get any of that wrong and the system misbehaves in ways that look like an equipment fault: short cycling, a house that is never quite the right temperature, a winter electric bill that doubles because auxiliary heat is running every night. We trace a lot of “broken AC” calls in Austin and San Antonio back to a thermostat that was wired for a different kind of system than the one on the wall.
Radiant installs smart thermostats, programmable thermostats and straightforward digital replacements, and the part that matters is the match. A heat pump needs a thermostat that can control the reversing valve and stage the backup heat. A two-stage furnace or variable-speed air handler needs one that can call for each stage. Many smart thermostats need a common wire for power that older homes never had. Our technician confirms what your equipment needs, runs or adapts the wiring, sets the configuration for your system and shows you how to use it before leaving.
If the thermostat is part of a bigger problem, we will say so. A new thermostat will not fix a failing compressor or a house that is hot upstairs because of thin attic insulation, and we would rather tell you that than sell you one.
What to Watch For
Any of these is worth a look before assuming the equipment is at fault.
Dead batteries, a lost common wire, a tripped float switch in the attic or a blown low-voltage fuse on the control board. Only one of those is the thermostat.
A thermostat in a hallway, in sunlight or above a lamp reads its own little climate. Relocation or a remote sensor fixes it.
A wrong cycle-rate setting, a thermostat wired for the wrong equipment type, or a heat anticipator on an old unit set badly.
On a heat pump, a thermostat that calls for auxiliary heat too early runs the electric strips all night. A configuration fix, not a new system.
Fan set to “on” instead of “auto” is the easy one. A miswired G terminal or a stuck relay is the one that needs a meter.
A new two-stage or heat pump system on a single-stage thermostat runs in one mode and never delivers what you paid for.
What We Install
From a straightforward digital swap to a smart thermostat with room sensors on a multi-stage system.
How It Works
Usually under two hours, and you leave knowing how to use it.
What kind of system you have, how many stages, and what the existing wiring supports. That decides which thermostats will work.
Smart, programmable or standard, with the price of each including any wiring work. Honored for 72 hours.
Wired, powered, set for your equipment type and staging, connected to Wi-Fi and tested through a full heating and cooling cycle.
Schedules built around your week, the app on your phone, and the two or three settings that matter explained in plain language.
Save on the work your home needs most.
Installed and configured by a licensed technician, with a written price first.
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Usually, but not always straight out of the box. Three things decide it. First, power: most smart thermostats need a common wire, and a lot of Central Texas homes built before the 2000s have a four-wire cable with no spare, so a C wire has to be added or an adapter installed at the air handler. Second, equipment type: a heat pump needs a thermostat that controls the reversing valve and stages the electric backup heat, and a two-stage furnace or variable-speed system needs one that can call for each stage. Third, the odd cases: some older systems, line-voltage heaters and certain proprietary communicating systems need their own control. We check all three before recommending a model.
Because it only measures the air around itself. A thermostat in a central hallway with no vents, or on a wall that gets afternoon sun, or above a lamp or a TV, will satisfy long before the bedrooms do, or run long after they are comfortable. In a two-story house the problem is bigger: a thermostat downstairs has no idea the upstairs is 82. The fixes are a better location, remote room sensors that let a smart thermostat average the rooms you use, or in a larger home a zoning setup. If the imbalance is severe, the cause may be ductwork or insulation rather than the thermostat, and we will tell you which.
It can, if you let it do the one thing that saves money: run the system less when nobody needs it. Setting back a few degrees while the house is empty in August, and letting it recover before you get home, is where the savings come from. A thermostat that is simply set to 72 all day, every day, saves nothing. The other real saving is on heat pumps, where a smart thermostat configured correctly keeps the electric backup strips from running when the heat pump alone could carry the load. We do not quote a percentage, because it depends entirely on how you use it, but a schedule that fits your week is a good start.
A standard digital thermostat holds one setpoint until you change it. A programmable thermostat lets you set different temperatures by time of day and day of week, so the system eases off while you are at work and asleep. A smart thermostat does that and adds Wi-Fi: control from your phone, schedules it learns or adjusts on its own, room sensors, and alerts when something is wrong, like a filter reminder or a system that is running but not reaching setpoint. Which one is right depends on how you live. Someone home all day on a fixed routine may be well served by a programmable model; someone with a variable schedule or a second home gets real value from the smart features.
Start with batteries if it has them. If it is powered by the system, a blank screen means the 24-volt supply from the air handler has stopped, and the common causes are a tripped float switch in the attic drain pan, a blown low-voltage fuse on the control board, a tripped breaker, or a thermostat wire that has been chewed or pulled loose in the attic. In summer, the float switch is the usual culprit: the condensate drain has clogged, the pan filled, and the switch cut power to protect your ceiling. That is a drain problem, not a thermostat problem, and clearing it restores everything. If the screen is blank and there is water in the pan, call us before resetting anything.