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Austin Water Heater Repair
Two things wear out water heaters faster in Austin than almost anywhere else. The first is the water. Austin’s supply comes from the Highland Lakes and it is hard; out in Dripping Springs, Driftwood and the other Hill Country communities on wells, it is often harder. Every gallon that runs through a tank leaves a little mineral behind, and in a few years that sediment is a crust on the bottom of the tank that makes gas burners rumble, electric elements burn out, and the whole unit take longer to recover. The second is where builders put the heater. In the slab neighborhoods of Round Rock, Pflugerville, Cedar Park, Leander and Kyle, the tank is usually in the attic, where summer temperatures cook the controls and a leak drains straight through the ceiling below.
In the older central neighborhoods, Hyde Park, Crestview, Tarrytown, the heater is more often in a garage, closet or utility room, which makes leaks easier to catch but means the units are frequently older and the venting was retrofitted. We have repaired all of these since 1999, and we carry the elements, thermocouples, gas valves and relief valves that fail here. Our water heater repair page explains what a repair involves; here is what it looks like in an Austin house.
What Goes Wrong
Some of these are a part; some are the tank telling you it is done. A diagnosis tells you which.
A failed lower element on an electric tank, a stuck dip tube, or a tank so full of sediment that half its capacity is gone. Common in hard-water Austin.
Water boiling under a layer of scale on the bottom of a gas tank. A flush helps early; after years of it the tank bottom is stressed.
Attic heaters leak from the relief valve, a fitting or the tank itself. The drain pan under it only helps if its line is clear.
Usually a thermocouple or a gas valve on an older unit. In a tight closet it can also be a combustion air problem worth fixing for safety.
A spent anode rod lets the tank itself corrode. Rotten-egg smell is bacteria reacting with the anode, which is fixable; rust-colored water is a warning.
Scale on the heat exchanger, a dirty inlet screen or a flow sensor. Tankless units in Austin need descaling more often than the manual suggests.
Repairs We Make
Tank and tankless, gas and electric, in attics, garages and closets from Georgetown to Buda.
How a Repair Call Goes
You know the cause and the cost before anything is replaced.
Tell us the symptom, the fuel type if you know it, and where the heater lives. If it is leaking, shut the cold supply valve on top of the tank.
Elements, thermostats, gas valve, venting, pressure, anode condition and the tank itself, not just the part that matches the symptom.
A written price for the repair and, if the tank is old or corroding, an honest replacement number beside it. Honored 72 hours, no hidden fees.
We bring the heater back to temperature, check for leaks and combustion safety, and back the work with the Home Comfort Guarantee.
Save on the work your home needs most.
Licensed plumbers on call 24/7, with the price agreed before the repair begins.
Don't just take our word for it — hear from our satisfied customers
Maintenance Membership
Home maintenance for $9.99 a month.
Care Club members get two HVAC tune-ups and a plumbing safety inspection every year, priority scheduling, no dispatch fees — ever — and 5% off every repair.
Once a year is the practical answer for most Austin-area homes, and more often is not unreasonable on well water in the Hill Country. Manufacturers often suggest a flush every year or two under average conditions, but Central Texas water is well above average in mineral content, and a tank that goes five years without a flush can carry inches of scale on the bottom. Flushing also gives us a chance to check the anode rod, which is the part that sacrifices itself so the tank does not rust. Care Club members get an annual plumbing inspection where we look at both. A water softener slows the buildup considerably; see Austin water softeners.
Yes, three things. Make sure there is a drain pan under it with a line that runs to the outside, and that the line is not clogged; a pan with a blocked drain is a bucket waiting to overflow. Find the cold supply shutoff valve on top of the tank and confirm it turns, so you can stop a leak from below without climbing up in a hurry. And consider a leak sensor or a float switch in the pan that shuts the water off automatically. Attic heaters in Round Rock, Cedar Park and Pflugerville homes are normal and safe, but when they fail they fail onto drywall, and a few minutes of preparation changes what that costs.
The temperature and pressure relief valve opens when the water inside the tank gets too hot or the pressure gets too high. If it drips regularly, the usual cause in Austin homes is not a bad valve but excess pressure: water expands as it heats, and in a house with a pressure-reducing valve or a backflow device there is nowhere for that expansion to go without an expansion tank. Some Austin-area neighborhoods also have high street pressure that needs regulating. Replacing the relief valve alone often means it drips again in a month. We test the static pressure, check or add an expansion tank, and replace the valve only if it has actually failed.
When the tank itself is leaking, there is no repair; the steel has rusted through and it needs replacing. Short of that, the deciding factors are age and what has already failed. A tank in its first decade with a burned-out element or a bad thermocouple is worth fixing. A tank well past ten years, with rusty water and a second or third repair coming, is usually costing more to keep than to replace, especially in an attic where the next leak has consequences. We give you both numbers in writing and let you decide. Our Austin water heater replacement page covers what comes next, and financing is available, subject to credit approval.