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Austin Tankless Water Heaters
Tankless water heaters are a good fit for a lot of Austin houses. They take the tank out of the attic in a Round Rock or Cedar Park two-story, they keep up with a household that runs showers back to back, and in the new all-electric and gas subdivisions in Leander, Hutto and Manor they are often already on the garage wall. But three local things decide whether a tankless unit is a pleasure or a headache, and all three get skipped when the install is rushed.
The first is hard water. Austin’s lake-fed supply and the well water in Dripping Springs and Spicewood leave scale on a tankless heat exchanger the same way they crust a tank, and a unit that is never descaled loses output and throws error codes within a few years. Isolation valves and an annual flush solve that. The second is gas supply: the half-inch line that fed the old tank in a 1990s Pflugerville home usually cannot feed a tankless burner, and undersized gas is the most common cause of lukewarm water from a new unit. The third is freezing. Exterior-mounted tankless units rely on electric freeze protection, and when the power went out for days in February 2021, many of them froze and split. We plan for all three on every install. The basics of how tankless works are on our tankless water heaters page.
Is Tankless Right for You?
These are the situations where a tankless unit earns its higher upfront cost. If none apply, a good tank may still be the better buy, and we will say so.
A wall-hung tankless on the garage side removes forty-plus gallons from above your ceiling. The most common reason for the switch in Austin suburbs.
A tankless unit sized for your flow does not run out. A bigger tank just runs out later.
A remodel is the cheapest time to run the gas, vent and condensate a tankless needs, especially in a central Austin house where the closet is going away.
Builder-installed units in Leander, Kyle and Hutto often ship without isolation valves and have never been flushed. Scale is the usual reason.
Flow sensors, igniters and scaled heat exchangers are repairable. We diagnose before anyone suggests a new unit.
In January the incoming water is cold enough that an undersized or gas-starved unit cannot lift it far enough. Sizing and gas supply fix it.
Tankless Services
Installation, conversion, annual descaling and repair, on gas and electric units.
How a Tankless Install Goes
The planning is where a tankless install succeeds or fails. We do not skip it.
Fixture count, peak flow, gas meter capacity and line size, vent path, electrical and the mounting location, inside or out.
The unit, the gas and vent work, the permit and any softener option, itemized and honored for 72 hours. No hidden fees.
Old tank out, new lines in, unit mounted with isolation valves, then set up and tested at every fixture under a permit where required.
We show you the isolation valves, explain the annual flush, and Care Club members get it folded into their plan.
Save on the work your home needs most.
Get an honest sizing and a written price, with no interest and no payments for six months, subject to credit approval.
Don't just take our word for it — hear from our satisfied customers
Maintenance Membership
Home maintenance for $9.99 a month.
Care Club members get two HVAC tune-ups and a plumbing safety inspection every year, priority scheduling, no dispatch fees — ever — and 5% off every repair.
It can, and February 2021 proved it. Most tankless units have built-in freeze protection, but it is electric, so when the power fails during a hard freeze the protection fails with it. Exterior units and units in unheated garages are the ones at risk. The fixes are practical: mount the unit indoors or in a conditioned space where possible, keep the gas and water lines insulated, and know how to drain the unit if the power goes out during a freeze warning. We walk every customer through the drain-down procedure at install. If an existing unit froze and split in a past storm, the heat exchanger is usually the casualty and we can tell you quickly whether repair or replacement makes sense.
Very often, yes. A tank heater burns a modest amount of gas for a long time; a tankless unit burns several times as much for a short time, and the pipe has to deliver that instantly while the furnace and range may also be running. The half-inch or three-quarter-inch line that served the old tank in a 1980s or 1990s Austin-area home is usually too small over the distance involved. The symptom of an undersized line is a unit that lights, runs lukewarm and shuts off. We calculate the load against the meter and the existing piping during the estimate and price any upsizing into the quote, so there is no surprise on install day.
Once a year for a house on Austin municipal water, and we would not argue with twice a year on Hill Country well water or in a house without a softener. Scale builds on the heat exchanger where the water is hottest, and it insulates the exchanger so the unit works harder and delivers less. The flush takes under an hour with a pump and isolation valves. If the unit has no isolation valves, which is common on builder installs in Leander, Kyle and Hutto, we can add them so future flushes are simple. A softener ahead of the unit slows the buildup considerably but does not replace the flush. Care Club members can add the descaling to their annual plumbing visit.
Usually not for a whole house, and we will say so rather than sell one. Heating water on demand with electricity takes a very large amount of current, and a whole-home electric tankless typically needs multiple dedicated circuits that many Austin panels cannot spare, especially in the all-electric homes in Leander and Hutto that already carry a heat pump and an EV charger. Where electric tankless shines is point-of-use: a single distant bathroom, a garage apartment or a casita on a central Austin lot. For whole-house tankless, gas is the practical choice, and where there is no gas a hybrid heat pump tank is often the better electric option. Our Austin-only electrical team can assess the panel if you want to explore it.