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The Drain You Forget About
Most days a floor drain does nothing. Then the water heater lets go, the washing machine hose splits or a storm pushes water under the garage door, and the floor drain is the difference between a mop-up and a flooring claim. Because it sits unused for months, it is also the drain most likely to be clogged with dust and lint, to have a dried-out trap letting sewer gas into the house, or to be sitting below a line that has quietly filled with sediment. Radiant’s licensed plumbers keep floor drains working across Austin, San Antonio and Central Texas.
Central Texas homes are mostly built on slabs, so our floor drains live in garages, laundry and utility rooms, mechanical closets, covered patios and pool areas rather than basements. The Texas heat dries out an unused trap in a matter of weeks, which is why a “sewer smell in the garage” is one of the most common floor drain calls we get, and why a trap primer or a simple habit of pouring water down the drain solves so many of them. When the problem is deeper, we run a cable or camera down the line and find out exactly where and why it is blocked.
Drain clearing comes with a promise in the Home Comfort Guarantee: if drainage backs up or slows after we clear it, we check it at no charge and make it right if it is related to our work.
What to Watch For
Test the drain on a normal day by pouring a bucket of water down it. If it does not disappear fast, read on.
The trap has dried out and the drain is now an open pipe to the sewer. Pour water in; if the smell returns quickly, the trap may be cracked.
Lint, dust, pet hair and mineral sediment have built up in the trap or the line. It will not drain at all when you need it most.
The floor drain shares a line that is restricted, and the washer’s pump is finding the lowest opening. That is a line clog, not a drain clog.
They breed in the organic film inside a neglected trap. Cleaning the trap and keeping it wet usually ends it.
A broken grate lets debris in and is a trip hazard. Cast iron bodies also rust through over time and need replacing.
Leaves and grit have filled the line, or it was undersized for a Central Texas downpour. We clear it and tell you if it needs rerouting.
What We Handle
Indoor and outdoor floor drains, the traps beneath them and the lines they feed.
How It Works
We find out why the drain failed, not just that it did.
Smell, standing water, backup during a wash cycle, or a new drain you want added. We schedule around you.
Flow test, trap check and, when a backup is involved, a look at what else shares that line.
Clearing, trap repair, camera work or a new install, each priced separately so you can decide.
Buckets of water down the drain, a check for odor return and, on a stubborn line, a camera pass to confirm it is open.
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Almost always because the trap under it has gone dry. Every floor drain has a U-shaped trap that holds a plug of water, and that water is what blocks sewer gas from rising into the room. A garage or utility drain that nothing flows into loses that water to evaporation, and in a Central Texas summer that can happen in a few weeks. Pour a gallon of water down the drain; if the smell goes away and stays away for a while, that was it. Adding a little mineral oil on top slows the evaporation. If the smell comes right back, the trap may be cracked or the drain may have been installed without one, and we can fit a trap primer or replace the trap so the seal holds on its own.
The washer and the floor drain share a section of drain line, and that line is partly blocked. The washer pumps out a large volume of water quickly, and when the line cannot carry it away fast enough, the water backs up and exits at the lowest open point, which is the floor drain. Lint is the usual culprit, and it builds into a mat with soap scum over years. This is a line clog, so clearing just the floor drain will not help; we cable or jet the shared line and, if it happens again, put a camera down to look for a belly or a broken section. A lint trap on the washer discharge hose helps prevent it.
Yes, and it is a good idea in any room with a water heater or a washing machine. It involves cutting the slab, setting a trapped drain body at the low point of the floor, running a line to tie into the home’s drain system with proper slope and venting, and patching the concrete. The route matters: the tie-in has to be downstream of the right fixtures and reachable without tearing up more floor than necessary, so we look at the layout before quoting. A drain pan under the water heater that is piped to that floor drain is a common add-on and turns a tank failure into a non-event. Permits apply, and we handle them.
A little, and it is easy. Once a month or so, pour a bucket of water down each floor drain to keep the trap full; this alone prevents most odor complaints. Once a season, lift the grate and clear out any lint, hair, pet fur or grit sitting in the trap, since that is where clogs start. Watch how quickly the bucket disappears: a drain that used to take it instantly and now hesitates is telling you the line is narrowing. Outdoor patio and pool deck drains need the leaves cleared before storm season. Care Club members get an annual whole-home plumbing safety inspection, and floor drains are on that checklist.